Artisanlandscapes Blog

Why Aerate

artisanlandscapes — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 19:29:58 +0000

An aeration treatment removes small cores of soil and thatch to allow air, moisture and nutrients to penetrate down to the root zone. The cores brought to the surface contain microorganisms, which help the breakdown of the woody thatch tissue layer just below the lawn’s crown. As the thatch layer is broken down, it is converted into organic matter that will then combine with existing soil particles.

Also, as the cores begin to breakdown over a period of several weeks, the holes gradually fill in with a mixture of organic matter and soil, and the filled hole allows roots of existing grass plants to spread out and grow deeper, creating a healthier, thicker lawn.

Because the aeration process is stressful on lawns, it should only be done during periods just before active growth is expected. For cool season grasses, those typically found in the northern half of the country, this would be in early spring or early fall, the 2 times of the year when cool season grasses really grow. During the hot summer months, cool season grasses really slow down in the growing department and this is not a good time to be aerating. If you’re planning on aerating in the spring and you plan on using a crabgrass control product, you’ll want to aerate before the pre-emergent application is made, which is as a rule around the time when forsythias first start blooming.

For warm season grasses, the highest period of growth is when it’s warmest. So aeration would be good if done in early summer.

Overseeding in cool-season areas, will fill-in bare or thin spots and help build a thicker lawn faster. The new seed quickly takes root in the freshly aerated lawn and provides new life to your already established grass. As your lawn gets thicker and healthier, your new grass plants help reduce the chance of new weeds sprouting.

Picking Out Plants For Your Design

artisanlandscapes — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 19:25:26 +0000

When you are picking out plants for a design there are many things to think about. First of all what type of landscape are you trying to develop. Do you want a formal or natural landscape. Either way you need to choose the appropriate types of plants for the type of landscape you would like. Next when choosing the plants you need to take into account the soil type which can be anywhere from acidic to basic. Then figure out how large of an area you are working with so that you can choose the appropriate size plants. This is one of the biggest problems people run into. You need to look into the mature size of the plant you will be selecting. Plants start small but can grow into larger more invasive shrubs or trees. So when planning for the landscape installation make sure you check into the mature size of the plant. Lastly, please check how much sun the plant will need. With a plant that needs full sun you will need 6+ hours of sun a day. Just check the plant statistics. Please email me with any questions at artisanlandscapeanddesigns@gmail.com.

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artisanlandscapes — Sat, 03 Oct 2009 02:45:22 +0000

Deer Resistant Plants For Your Home

artisanlandscapes — Sat, 03 Oct 2009 01:21:35 +0000

Anaphalis triplinervis (Pearly Everlasting)
Amsonia tagernaemontana

Anemone spp. (Windflower)

Aquilegia spp. (Columbine)

Arabis spp. (Cress)

Armeria maritima (Sea Pink)

Aruncus dioicus (Goatsbeard)

Asclepias tuberosa (Butterfly weed)

Artemisia spp.

Astilbe spp.

Aubrietia spp. (False Rockcress)

Belacamda chinensis (Blackberry Lily)

Bergenia spp.

Boltonia asteroids (Boltonia)

Calamagrostis (Feather Reed Grass)

Campanula carpatica (Harebell)

Chelone glabra (Turtlehead)

Convallaria majalis (Lily of the Valley)

Coreopsis spp. (Tickseed)

Dianthus spp.

Dicentra spp. (Bleeding Heart)

Dictamnus albus (Gas Plant)

Digitalis spp.(Foxglove)

Dryopteris spp. (Wood Fern)

Echinacea spp. (Coneflower)

Echinops ritro (Globe Thistle)

Euphorbia spp. (Cushion Spurge)

Eupatorium (Joe-Pye Weed)

Filipendula (Meadowsweet)

Festuca spp. (Blue Fescue Grass)

Gaillardia spp. (Blanket Flower)

Gypsophila paniculata (Baby’s Breath)

Helleborus spp. (Lenten Rose)

Heuchera spp. (Coral Bells)

Hypericum spp. (St. John’s Wort)

Iberis sempervirens (Candytuft)

Iris spp.

Lavandula (Lavender)

Liatris (Gayflower)

Lychnis spp. (Rose Campion)

Mentha spicata (Spearmint)

Miscanthus sinensis (Maiden Grass)

Monarda didyma (Bee Balm)

Nephrolepis (Sword fern)

Myrrhis odorata (Sweet Cicely)

Nepeta spp. (Cat Mint)

Origanum spp. (Marjoram)

Paeonia lactiflora (Peony)

Papaver orientale (Oriental poppy)

Perovskia spp. (Russian sage)

Physostegia virginiana (Obedient Plant)

Polemonium caeruleum (Jacob’s Ladder)

Pulmonaria (Lungwort)

Pulsatilla vulgaris (Pasque flower)

Salvia spp.

Stachys byzantina (Lamb’s ear)

Tanacetum (Tansy)

Trillium spp. (Trillium)

Veronica spp. (Speedwell)

Yucca spp. (Yucca)

Biennials

Campanula medium (Canterbury Bells)

Digitalis purpurea (Foxglove)

Hesperis matronalis (Dame’s Rocket)

Lychnis (Rose Campion)

Myosotis sylvatica (Forget-Me-Not)

Verbascum (Mullein)

Verbena bonariensis (Verbena)

Hello world!

artisanlandscapes — Fri, 02 Oct 2009 23:29:35 +0000

Hello everyone this is my first blog. I am coming to you from Artisan Landscape and Designs. I hope in the future my posts can be both informational and helpful.